LAMU ISLAND-AN AMAZING GUIDE FOR A FIRST TIMER

You must have come across several articles about Lamu. It’s fascinating. When you visit Lamu for the first time, there is every reason for you to become a writer. If you are already a writer, narrating experiences in Lamu is a piece of cake. The Island leaves you speechless. It has a different vibe than other coastal towns. It is ancient yes, but so is Malindi. However, you can’t compare them. Lamu trip is never a one off, because you cannot get enough the first time. It will take you 1 hour and 10 min maximum on a direct flight to Lamu. This is 20 minutes more than Mombasa and 10 minutes more than Ukunda. On arrival at Manda Airport, the Island-feel kicks in. This article is enlightenment to a Lamu first-time visitor.

Because I want to take you on a journey of Lamu Island, let’s begin at the airport. Manda is a small airport. The landing is not that friendly because of the patches on the runway. Let me take you on a detour. A year ago, the walkway from the airport lounge to boarding and vice versa was very displeasing. June 2021 found me in Lamu. This time Lamu wasn’t as inviting. The weather was gloomy and it rained. Most of my time was spent in the house. This is to tell you that if you are planning a Lamu trip, June shouldn’t be in your plans. On the morning of my flight back to Nairobi, the rain decided to clean up the island. You know the rain that is normally escorted by strong winds? The ocean became rough and angry. I had two options, get on the boat and head to the airport or wait for it to calm down and miss my flight.

Because Lamu had disappointed for the entire week, I had no motivation to stay any minute longer. I chose to brave the rain. I got on to the boat and on to the rough waters. The boat had a roof, but the wind was directing the rain drops where to hit hard. I was wet. Luckily, Nassir of Lady Gaga boat (my favorite transfer guy) had enough experience to sail the boat amidst the strong tides. The boat docked and I run to the airport check-in while still being rained on. I did not even say goodbye to Nassir.

At the lounge, I only had 5 minutes to relax before boarding. Now this is where the drama was. From the lounge to where the plane was is about 150-200 meters. Walking in the rain and on a muddy path was such a terrible experience. By the time I boarded, my shoes were full of mud and my clothes dripping wet. You can imagine the look I got from my seat mate who I met already seated en-route Malindi from Nairobi. He was probably wondering if I was mad pretending to sit next to him. But that was my seat and the other option was sitting at the back of the plane. I sat at the edge and made sure we weren’t in contact at all until he alighted in Malindi. That is how terrible Manda airport was a year ago. At the moment, the pathway has ballast. Let me get you back to the article 🙂

When you collect your luggage at Manda Airport, there are porters waiting to help you. For a first timer, this is normally very confusing. At times, the guys will have a placard written the name of the house or hotel that you are staying at. Others will just ask to help you with luggage. Before you give out your luggage, make sure you agree on a fee. The ‘helping’ with your luggage is never free. Most will tell you to give them whatever you wish. It is good to be aware that you will pay eventually. If you have a small luggage, you can carry yourself. It is also okay to allow them to carry, but at an agreed cost. The point is for you to be aware that you will pay for it to avoid confrontation.

Lamu is an Island. Manda and Lamu are in different Islands and therefore, they are separated by water. This means that transfers from the airport are by boat. This is different from other coastal towns. If you are on a private trip, make sure you have arranged with the boat guy to avoid being stranded. For organized groups, it is easy because the operators do the arrangements. The Island experience sinks in during the transfers. This is where the boat guy or your guide will show you the difference between Lamu Island, Shela and Manda. The boat captains go at a steady pace to allow you time to admire the island you had longed to see.

One of the aspects you will note -that is different -about Lamu are the beach boys. You see how in Diani, Watamu, Malindi, etc. beach boys come to you and even if you dismiss them they become stubborn? This will never happen in Lamu, Shela or Manda. The people you will find at the jetty will only ask if you need a boat or dhow, when you tell them no, it ends there. They even identify you. When they see you again, they won’t approach you unless you reach out. Such discipline needs to spread like gospel to other Kenyan beaches.

Dressing is an issue that has caught many visitors off-guard. The people of Lamu and especially Shela are conservatives. They hold their cultural values dearly and are stubborn to let go. They discourage wearing of revealing clothes and extremely short dresses when walking on those streets. This does not mean that you can’t do beach wear. You can wear a short dress or pants, but have a cover up when on the streets. As a first timer, it’s good to be aware of this and pack accordingly.

Shela Island has houses next to each other. Therefore, noise and especially at night can be heard from each corner. The locals will complain if your noise is high at night. If you have a party in Lamu, just know that music at night will be a bother to a lot of people. However, you can always take the party to the floating restaurant or a local joint at the dunes.

When organizing Lamu holidays for Safiri Nasi clients, one of the question most of them ask is whether the house is beach front. For a first timer in Lamu, you should know that the beach front properties that you see on other Kenyan beaches are not present in Lamu except, Majlis, Manda bay and Diamond resorts on Manda Island. Beach front hotels are believed to have a beach. In Shela, if a house/hotel is close to the ocean, it’s called ocean front and not beach front. This is because the water touches the building walls and therefore no sand or swimming spots. The beach in Shela is a 3 minutes’ walk from the houses and therefore what you can have is an ocean view from the house/hotel.

Weather in Lamu is very interesting. Unlike other Kenyan beaches where you sweat from day one, Lamu has a strong breeze that neutralizes the fierce sun rays. Apart from the Lamu old town tour where you will require a sun hat because the breeze is blocked by the buildings, the architecture in Lamu allows the breeze inside the buildings. This means that you do not need an AC and rarely do you require a fan. I don’t know if it’s just me, but I have never seen a mosquito in Lamu. I always believe it’s because they can’t withstand the wind. The point am trying to make here is, Lamu is not as hot as other coastal towns.

It is important to note that there are only two properties that resemble other beach front hotels in Diani, Watamu, Kilifi or Malindi. That is Majlis and Manda Bay hotels. In Shela, the hotels I have seen are in form of a houses or apartments with several floors. Kijani hotel/houses and Msafini hotel are just houses that have a meal plan. Peponi hotel is a bit different because its ocean front and at times on low tide you can swim at the ocean. There are not many properties with a swimming pool and those that have; it’s a Jacuzzi that has gone to school. This means that one stroke takes you from one end to the other. For a better swimming experience, I normally recommend crossing over to Majlis hotel.

When booking a house in Lamu, it’s important to note that most houses have one bed in each room. This means that if you are 8 people and take up a 4 bedroom house, you will be required to share beds. The hotels have twin rooms. However, if you are a group, a house would give you more freedom and space than a hotel. Tough choices, right?

Lamu old town tour (also known as UNESCO tour) is something you have to do while in Lamu. However, it is important to note that it requires walking for about 4 hours in the sun and on narrow streets. You will meet a lot of people, share the streets with donkeys and get to learn a lot of history from your guide. Lamu old town is a good place to buy souvenirs and drinks that you need in Shela. Street food and kiosks are plenty in Lamu old town.

Sunsets are a signature of Lamu. They make you want to go there again and again. Sunset dhow cruise is a must do when you are in Lamu. The experience of sailing steadily and watching the sun change from sharp brightness to dim, and then to a ball is magical. This is the memory that will never leave your mind. Ask anyone who has been to Lamu and they will tell you the kind of mark that sunset left in their hearts.