The beauty of Northern Kenya-Chalbi Desert, Loiyangalani and Ngurunit
My first visit was in October 2018 and it was by accident. That trip was part of Safiri Nasi’s plan of demystifying the Northern Kenya Myth. The reason why I say it was by accident is because the plan was to visit Marsabit national park and then drive back to Samburu.
On our first night, a lady (I normally refer to her as ‘queen of the north’) called Sarah mentioned about a desert which was about 100km on an all-weather road. We felt it was easy to accommodate it in our itinerary. We figured out the cost and when I mentioned it to the group, everyone was up for it. Chalbi was a destination previously sold to international guests and the local tourists knew little or nothing about it. But guess what? That was about to change. Our maiden visit to the desert made sure that we took images and shared on the socials. The new discovery got Kenyans excited about the North. Many more trips to the desert followed and for a minute, Chalbi became a dream destination. Safiri Nasi has organized and taken many groups through Chalbi desert and on an itinerary that passes through various exciting attractions. In this article, I will go through the entire itinerary highlighting places and sites I deem important for someone planning to visit the North.
Mt. Ololokwe
In 2018, I described Mt Ololokwe as “an idiosyncratic flat topped shape with high sheer cliff drops of an average of 2,000 meters high. The mountain towers over the Samburu plains. To the locals, the mountain is commonly known as Ol Donyo Sabache. In the recent past, the mountain has drawn more attention to visitors who hike, rock climb and camp. Besides, the views of the surrounding arid and semi-arid plains and distant mountains from the cliff are astonishing.”
Mt ololokwe has become a very popular destination to the locals. Some local tourists are even driving to Mt ololokwe and back to Nairobi on a day trip. If you are wondering why this is the case, the answer is simple-the mountain is picturesque.
Close to the mountain is a very interesting feature called cat and mouse. This is popular to those who take helicopter rides in the north.
Marsabit National Park
Call it ignorance, but in my mind Marsabit was such a dry place. I equated it to Wajir or any other place in the North that is hot. Shock on me! When I got to Marsabit, I was surprised to find a climate similar to Nairobi’s. In fact, the morning was misty with drizzles. The weather at Marsabit town is affected by Mt Marsabit.
This mountain is a basaltic shield volcano that is covered by a dense forest. It is the the home of Marsabit National park and a source of water for Marsabit residents. But what really makes people visit Marsabit?
Marsabit National park, (which now has a museum at Ahmed gate) is the first stop for tourists. We visit here to see Lake Paradise,
Sokorte diko (where Marsabit lodge used to be)
Bakuri Dam
and sunset behind the trees.
However, you will be lucky to find animals such as elephants, buffaloes, and greater kudu at Lake paradise or Sokorte diko.
Zebras, baboons and various antelopes are however on sight.
The ongoing drought in the North has affected these lakes. For the last four years, the water level at the lakes have had reduced every time I visited. This is a threat to wildlife and the people living in Marsabit town.
For lovers of night life, Marsabit town has a club or clubs (not sure because I have always gone to one) that accommodates visitors. They reserve a VIP lounge for you and play your requests.
About 5km from Marsabit town is a crater called gof aredo. This crater has constant strong winds. It blows in such strength that if you are light or wearing an open jacket, you can start paragliding.
Chalbi Desert
Another surprising thing is that when you leave the misty Marsabit town for about 7km, the heat that slaps you is over 35 degrees Celsius. This increases as you drive towards Chalbi desert. The drive to Chalbi desert is characterized by rocky and dusty roads. As you enter the desert, the rocks disappear and it becomes pure sand. During rainy season, Chalbi desert is impassable. This is because Chalbi is a dried up Lake and any little rainfall turns it into a mushy-wet land.
The drive through the desert is epic. Top speed with dust clouds behind is a such a delight. It becomes even more interesting when you are in a convoy. Tourists normally stop in the middle of the desert to take photos. This stretch calls for a lot of hydration, pain killers in case of headache, sunglasses and hats.
Kalacha
Imagine driving across a very hot desert and then finding water and a settlement! Kalacha is a town that supports life. It’s an oasis in the middle of a desert. How that water finds itself there is a mystery of creation theories.
Camels from all over the desert come here for water. The oasis has fresh water that locals use for drinking and bathing.
There are accommodation places here as well if you wish to spend a night. One of them is the newly established Chalbi Cottages.
North Horr
When you drive past the oasis, you get into the desert again. This drive is a bit rocky. The road has recently been graveled so it has a lot of loose stones. North Horr is another oasis. Presence of water and people will put a smile on your face.
However, during this drought season, the area has really been affected. Water has become a rare commodity and animals have died in huge numbers. People have also lost their lives in the past year.
North Horr has various accommodation places. Most of them have traditional bandas that are basic and clean. You will also be tempted to sleep under the stars because of the heat at night.
There is a swimming pool which makes tourists feel like they have reached heaven. Cooling off your body after the rough and hot ride is a welcome gift. At the swimming pool, there is a bar with local Kenyan beer and soft drinks.
North Horr is the only place in this route that has a sand dune. When I first visited this dune, a driver we had hired from Marsabit town asked me, “Yaani mmekuja hiyo safari yote kuona mchanga? Kwani kwenu hakuna mchanga?” (You mean you have come all this way to see sand? Don’t you have sand where you come from?) I looked at him and had no words. The dune is huge and picturesque. When you visit here at the evening, you get to witness a magical sunset.
Loiyangalani
Loiyangalani is on the shores of Lake Turkana on Marsabit county side.
Have you been to the Lodwar side on Lake Turkana? Read about it here.
Loiyangalani is a much bigger town. It has spring water that comes from Mt. Kulal. This means that the town sustains life. Apart from sustaining life, it is a perfect location for tasting fresh fish from the Lake. It also gives a cooling environment for visitors.
There is a desert museum here as well. The lake is a perfect location for capturing sunset.
At the lake, there is an island that hosts one of the smallest communities in Kenya called Elmolo. This is a perfect place for a cultural experience. Visiting the village is by boat and you get welcomed by overjoyed residents.
The community has a guide who explains anything you want to know about them. They also display beadwork and curios for sale.
The island gives you a spectacular 360 degrees view of Lake Turkana. When visiting the community, it’s always advisable to carry some donations in form of either money, or items such as foodstuff, second hand clothes, etc.
As you leave the town towards south Horr, the view of the lake gets even better. After a few kilometres, you will get to Turkana wind power project. The wind farm covers 160 square kilometres (40,000 acres) and has a capacity of 310 MW, enough to supply one million homes. It comprises 365 wind turbines, each with a capacity of 850 kilowatts. You are allowed to stop here and take photos.
Ngurunit
The drive from the wind farm through south Horr to Ngurunit is characterized by landscape, Hills, valleys and steep slopes. You will see a bit of farming at South Horr, mazeras being sold along the road, dried up rivers and rocky hills.
Ngurunit is surrounded by Ndoto Mountains that is in form of a range. It’s a great spot for hikers.
When it’s not dry season, Ngurunit is a perfect place for rock slides. Elephants here roam freely at night especially along the dried up rivers looking for water. It is clear that the whole of northern Kenya is praying for rain. Water sustains life and preserves attractions.
From the many times I have toured this route, attractions have been different each time. From the decreasing level of water at lake paradise; to dying livestock as well as people in North Horr, it’s currently a sad state of affair.
That notwithstanding, visiting this route is a welcome gesture for the locals. The revenue they get goes a long way to sustaining life. They also get well-wishers from the visitors. On your next visit, carry as much donations as you can. At the same time, think of more sustainable ways to help the communities along that route.
Chalbi desert is such a beauty. The entire route is full of exciting physical features. This is a must do safari in Kenya! You can’t say you have a full Kenyan experience without having a desert tour.
Chalbi desert awaits…..
